Age-Worthy Austrian Whites
I admire the stylistic diversity of Austrian white wines, even when narrowed down to the two premier grapes, Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, then further streamlined to the central-west sub-regions of Niederösterreich, Kamptal, Kremstal and Wachau. Their ability to exude charm when young and prompt marvel with age captivate me. I feel thoroughly lucky to have had the chance to enjoy these four, beautifully-aged wines over the last two months. I wish I had more of them, especially the Nigl Riesling Senftenberger Pellingen from the thrilling 2011 vintage.
95
Nigl 2011 Riesling Privat Senftenberger Pellingen Erste Lage Reserve Kremstal 13.5%
This mind-blowing Riesling opened with a compelling fusel note followed by the typically tricky (were one blind tasting) combo that is classically attributed to Grüner Veltliner, but that shows up often in just-opened Austrian Rieslings: white peppercorn and white grapefruit. A vivid energy kept unfolding the wine's layers over the course of three hours. Keeping it in the decanter that long was a test of will that was generously rewarded. Tantalizing aromas of dried peach, caramelized persimmon, honeydew melon and savory spice emerged in time. The lightly oily texture seemed to fill not only the palate but also the chest with a gloriously rich complexity. The crisp, pithy and dry finished lingered with a flint- and oyster shell-driven minerality. Captivating now, this 2011 will continue to shine for many more years. Truly enrapturing!
94
Domäne Wachau 2009 Riesling Smaragd Achleiten Wachau 13.5%
Focused, pure, minerally and electrifying with tension, this Achleiten is a show-stopper. While ample on the palate, the dry extract is smartly balanced by poised acidity. Aromas and flavors of salt cellar, dried field flowers, citrus peels and white peach uncoil over the course of the bottle. Brimming with energy, the sleek body certainly doesn't feel as rich as its declared 13.5% abv. The balance is top notch. The smooth, tantalizingly layered and powerfully long finish suggest this wine has a long way to go.
93
Salomon Undhof 2006 Grüner Veltliner Lindberg Einzellage Reserve Kremstal 13.5%
This is a gastronomic gem! I initially feared it was a bit tired, but thankfully it only needed time - and only about 15 minutes - to open up. It first notes were deeply petrol-y, but they lightened with some swirling to allow aromas of lemongrass, lime pith, bay leaf and ginger to come forward. A briny, oyster shell quality eventurally kicked up with some milky, lactic character reminiscent of Chablis. The supple, glycerol-driven palate cleaned up nicely with some light tannins on the long finish. N.B. Ried Lindberg - owned exclusively by Salomon Undhof - became one of 52 vineyards deemed by the Traditionsweingüter Österreich to be an Erste Lage with the 2010 vintage.
91
Schloss Gobelsburg 2006 Grüner Veltliner Kammerner Renner Trocken Kamptal 13.5%
This bottle of deeply golden Grüner Veltliner was definitely ready to be enjoyed. It seemed a smidgen past its prime, very possibly specific only to this bottle. (After all, 2006 was an epic vintage.) Nonetheless, the wine was still thoroughly enjoyable, and it was immediately exuberant and exotic in the glass. Honey and marzipan notes suggesting some attractive botrytis led the way to a waxy mid-palate filled with nectarine, quince and mango. A firm but discreet vein of acidity kept this velvety textured wine balanced through the cracked pepper finish. N.B. Ried Renner became one of 52 vineyards deemed by the Traditionsweingüter Österreich to be an Erste Lage with the 2010 vintage.