Garofoli in Three Colors

90
Garofoli 2017 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Podium 14% $30
As medium-bodied as the Macrina, I wouldn't have guessed that this wine hosted a full percentage point more of alcohol, even as the wines warmed up together. While the acidity seems about the same - or perhaps slightly milder in the Podium, there is a light, tannic bite that give this wine a pithy oomph. While it drinks well at refrigerator temperature, it is worth letting this wine open up at cellar temperature. The flavor array includes star fruit, lemon peel and pith, fennel and chicken broth. While enticing on its own, this shines with briny seafood dishes.
Drink: 2020-23

88
Garofoli 2019 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Macrina 13% $16
Bursting with vibrant, doughnut peach character, this is super youthful and begging to be enjoyed now. With or without food, ice cold or lightly chilled, this wine shows well every way you serve it. Still, the medium-weight palate and considerable finish give the wine enough gravitas to ensure that it won't be taken for a simple sipper. Though there is a trend (like it or not) is to give white wines some tannic bite, you won't find any here.
Drink: 2020-21 

87
Garofoli 2017 Rosso Cònero Piancardo 13.5% $17
Brimming with mulberry and briar patch fruits, this is a youthful and straight-forward red. It's plenty tangy with mouthwatering acidity and this edgy start to the mouthfeel is accompanied by lightly raspy tannins. Incredibly, the finish is smooth and resolved, showing tangy black currant and blackberry flavors with a touch of dry earth. Rather upfront in impact and brief on the finish, this is ready to be enjoyed though it may hold well for a short while.
Drink: 2020-22  

86
Garofoli 2019 Rosato Marche Kòmaros 13% $14
This is a pure Montepulciano rosato. Dazzling with its nectarine-inflected pink color, this mouthfilling, broad and vaguely oily rosato goes for impact. Fresh flavors of peach, strawberry hull and lychee zip across the palate. Medium acidity supports the considerable heft (it's a good wine for mid-weight dishes), it is a dry, almost pinching acidity that really reins in the wine. The finish is quick but pleasantly minerally. Try serving warmer than most rosatos, around 50° F / 10° C to tamp down the back palate bite, and do sip with food.
Drink: 2020-21