Albariño Knocks

It is the time of year I start thinking of summer-y wines: wines for lighter cuisine and wines for sipping in the sunshine. Albariño from Rías Baixas tackles both jobs with gusto. Here are two I’ve tasted recently from the freshest vintage on the market.

88
Pazo Señorans 2016 Albariño 13.5%
As ever, this is a shining example of all Albariño can and should be. The reluctantly aromatic nose leads to a nicely fleshy palate tasting of dried yellow apples and star fruit. The lingering finish leaves traces of dried breadcrumb flavors behind. There’s just enough of everything in all the right places here, including a solidly medium body to give the palate a nice heft and a pleasantly mouth-filling architecture. Perfect on its own or with mid-weight fish or pork dishes, this over-delivers for a well-established producer’s “introductory” wine. This bottling’s youthful, pale, green-inflected yellow color and excellent balance suggest it has some staying power.
Drink: 2017-18

85
Coto Redondo 2016 Albariño Robaliño 12.5%
Showing a lemon pulp color, this wine has some pithy grip. In fact, everything about it is citrusy or zippy. The nose smells of tart yellow grapefruit and pomelo while the palate moves into more exotic tones of gooseberry and yuzu. The reserved and lightweight body makes this a good wine style for quaffing or pairing with raw shellfish. Though rather straightforward and one-note, this wine ticks all the boxes, even if it is an early drinker.
Drink: Through 2017