89
Troon Vineyard 2018 Vermentino Kubli Bench Applegate Valley 12.9% $25
Sleek and sexy, this is an enticing Vermentino. It has full-throttle flavor and an intriguing combination of structure and texture that keeps me going back to the glass. The flavors are so subtle as to be elusive. A whiff of flint. A wave of spring flowers. A suspicion of peach pit. It's like a game of catch-what-you-can as the wine evolves in the glass.  

Tip: serve cool but not chilled. Otherwise, you'll never "get" the wine. This is not the first time I've mentioned this about Troon's Vermentinos. By the time my bottle had warmed to room temperature, it had exchanged its pithy edge for a harmoniously smooth texture. The warmer temperature also seemed to give it a more substantial presence on the palate, despite only 12.9% abv. 
Drink: 2019-20

89
Troon Vineyard 2018 Grenache Cowhorn Vineyard Applegate Valley 12.6% $35
This Grenache showed a broad array of personalities over the three hours that I was checking in on it. I truly don't think that I've ever seen a wine transform so much during such a short timeframe. I'm thankful that it did evolve. When I first opened the wine, it reeked. Concerned, I set it aside for five minutes and came back. The wine seemed to be cleaning itself up in the glass. Another twenty minutes later, I went in for the third sampling and was reassured that whatever caused the initial funk had fully dissipated. 

After about an hour after I opened the bottle, I fully began to enjoy it. This Grenache has soul! Its sweet, mid-palate juiciness is framed by a surprisingly crisp structure for Grenache: there is a stream of dense, grippy tannins and racy acidity. Marasca cherries form the core of the flavors, and they are highlighted by anise, lavender and a touch of leather. The medium, earthy finish is intensely dry, making this a wine to accompany food. Given its punchy structure, this wine should age nicely in the mid-term, if properly stored.
Drink: 2019-22 

92
Troon Vineyard 2018 Côtes du Kubli Rouge Cowhorn Vineyard Applegate Valley 12.9% $45
Mouthfilling and chewy, there is a lot of fruit ripeness and concentration at only 12.9% abv. It's an impressive effort, showing the cracked black peppercorn spice, blackberry lushness and zippy acidity of Syrah interlaced with the 28% Grenache that gives the wine a custardy mid-palate and its underlying red raspberry flavors. Surprisingly, in comparison to the pure Grenache from Cowhorn Vineyard (above), this brooding red has more curvy, sculpted tannins and a less bristly finish. This makes it easier as a lone sipper, but there's plenty of structure to support rich dishes destined for the table. The saturating forest fruit flavors persist on the multi-dimensional finish that incorporates slate, pencil lead and and lots of mocha. Speaking of which, if you have time to let this open up for half an hour, its intense vanilla candle notes will have the time to wear off to show the dense fruit beneath.
Drink: 2019-24