Christy Canterbury MW

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Some of the Last Jay Somers Wines from J.Christopher

It was a pleasure to taste these wines made by J.Christopher founder, Jay Somers. While there are still a few vintages of Pinot Noir made by Jay to be released, this is the last of the white wines. (Jay left for a new venture in 2019.) These are worth looking into as there's not a single one that isn't charming!

Whites 

93
J.Christopher 2018 Chardonnay Olenik Vineyard Chehalem Mountains 13% $45
This is the second vintage of the Olenik Chardonnay. With only 75 cases made, it is the second smallest production wine of J.Christopher, with just a few dozen more coses than the Late Harvest Riesling Appassionata. 

Made from Wente clone material grown in rocky, volcanic soil on a south-facing slope in the Chehalem Mountains - whoa - this is noble Chardonnay. There is so much of everything that is distinguishing in a wine here, from the delicate, almost light-hearted citrus character to the savory, salty and vaguely drying finish with absolutely no bitterness. There's zero reason to wait, but if you do, this bottling should still be rewarding thanks to its complex layers of oyster shell, Comice pear, cultured butter and toasted hazelnuts.
Drink: 2020-24

92
J.Christopher 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Über Croft Vineyard Willamette Valley 13.5% $40
This is one of my favorite wines at J.Christopher, made in large format acacia barrels. It is always incredibly elegant yet steeped with flavor. 

Delicate on the nose, this wine gets off to a minerally start. Lithe and sappy, the perky mid-palate teems with a tantalizing sweet-tart acidity. Graceful and citrusy, the predominant flavors of yellow grapefruit and lemon curd are sprinkled with light dill and parsley notes. This is vinous right through the lingering finish. 
Drink 2020-24

91
J.Christopher 2018 Chardonnay Cuvée Lunatique "No Malo" Willamette Valley 13.5% $25
Not only does this wine not see any malolactic fermentation, it also doesn't see any new oak.  When the visionary winemaker produced it, some called him a lunatic. Crazy, however, he was not. The wines thrives thanks to its many followers. This is the highest production Chardonnay (still small, relatively, at 430 cases) at the winery! 

Clean and laser-like in freshness, this wine has a salty lemon taste from start to finish. Neither effusive nor fruit-driven, this reticent wine is intellectual. It demands attention as it opens, and it benefits from being served at cellar temperature rather than fully chilled. Medium-bodied with no obvious tannins, this has a dry zip that is engaging and lifting. While it drinks well on its own, it thrives with food, especially shellfish.
Drink: 2020-24 

Reds 

93
J.Christopher 2016 Pinot Noir Lumière Special Selection Unfiltered Eola-Amity Hills 13.5% $45
Produced since 2010, the 2016 vintage of Lumière is a blend of two Eola-Amity Hills vineyards, En Gedi and Bieze. Hailing from this windy, chilly (at night, that is) and southern stretch of the Northern Willamette Valley, this Pinot Noir always offers good cellaring potential.  

Sassy and spicy, this full-throttled and full-bodied Pinot Noir tastes of perfectly ripe black cherries, black plums and graphite. The seamless tannins are svelte upfront then give a gentle tug on the back palate, as the wine eases into a solid finish of asphalt and smashed blueberry. The acidity adds some bite and crunch, kicking up a broad array of complex flavors on the palate and finish. This drinks nicely now if you like your Pinot Noirs bold, but it has the refined concentration and graceful structure to age to benefit for a good while. 
Drink: 2020-26

93
J.Christopher 2016 Pinot Noir Volcanique Unfiltered Dundee Hills 13.5% $30
The Volcanique comes from a collection of sources in the Dundee Hills, all rooted in the area's famous, red Jory clay soils. The Dundee Hills are known for making heftier wines, and the Volcanique lives up to the expectations of its terroir. 

Fiercely flavorful, this wine tastes of elderberries and sloe with a twinge of tobacco. As it opens, blueberries and red cherries surface, too. It's worth decanting this wine, and do be sure to serve it at cellar temperature (55-60 F). Warmer temps smother its aromatic nuances! There is a grosgrain ribbon-like texture on the mid-palate that gives this wine oomph and makes it excellent for the table. The perky back-palate lift emphasizes that texture and delivers an attractive dryness that will nicely match hearty foods. This is a Pinot that could even stand alongside steak!
Drink: 2020-26 

92
J.Christopher 2016 Pinot Noir Basalte Unfiltered Chehalem Mountains 13.5% $30
As with the Volcanique, this wine really benefited from a few hours of decanting. In contrast to the Volcanique's clay soils, the Basalte comes from vineyards based on fractured igneous rocks. 

This fuller-bodied, richer style of North Willamette Valley Pinot Noir turned up ripe black cherries and briar fruits along with exotic spices. The somewhat burly tannins do cut the length rather short, despite the juicy, back-fill of boisterous fruit. Happily, the vibrant acidity gives the finish refreshment. Perhaps it just needs some time to settle down.
Drink: 2021-24