Christy Canterbury MW

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La Valentina - A Pecorino That I Look Forward To Enjoying

I have a fondness for the Pecorino from La Valentina (and, admittedly, Pecorino in general), so I was excited to receive these wines again this year. (Here are my 2019 and 2018 write-ups.) The trio of di Properzio brothers, Sabatino, Andrea and Roberto, do excellent work in particular in crafting the Pecorino and the Spelt Montepulciano that deliver value beyond their price points. I do find that the style of the "classic" Montepulciano d'Abruzzo varies quite a bit year to year. It did so again this year, but it is the most impressive bottling of this wine that I have written about for this site so far.

89
La Valentina 2019 Pecorino Colline Pescaresi 13.5% $17
Salty and savory on the medium-bodied attack, this wine is lively without being markedly acidic and youthful without being overtly fruit-driven. A vague citrusy tone tries to hide in the copious, mouth-filling palate full of hay and wax bean. A touch of lemon peel and green apple skin adds some complexity and pithy dryness to the moderately lingering finish. 
Drink: 2020-22 

89
La Valentina 2016 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva Spelt 13.5% $22
When first poured, this intensely youthful and fruit-forward wine shows volatile notes. The overt ones dissipate quickly though, and the remaining bramble and blueberry fruit simply smells vividly ripe. The palate starts broad and mouthfilling on the attack then - in quite a contrast - turns slightly pinching and dry on the palate. This sensation is heightened by the ripple of acidity on the back palate. Still, there is a considerably lengthy, minerally finish that is packed with concentrated flavor. Though working on its fourth birthday, this wine still needs some time to sort out in the bottle. There's no need to rush into it.
Drink: 2021-24

88
La Valentina 2017 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 13% $15
This is no feeble Montepulciano d'Abruzzo! It's astoundingly concentrated. In fact, it's burly. Showing a blasting force of sheer youth in its aromas and palate feel, it screams for decanting. It also needs decanting because there was a touch of fizz when I first opened. Luckily, it blew off quickly. If you don't finish it in one go, I can almost guarantee you that it will be better on Day Two, as long as it is kept in the refrigerator or another cool place. With air, the aromas and palate unfold a dynamic and crunchy array of briar fruits with touch of high-toned cassis. The tannins are brooding, chewy and strapping, making this vigorous youth a wine best enjoyed at the table with hearty fare. The finish lingers with notes of charcoal and crushed slate. This is an "entry level" wine that would age well for several years, as its 2015 sibling did.
Drink: 2020-23