Christy Canterbury MW

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German "Burgunder" Wines

Wines from the Pinot umbrella family sometimes are called "Burgunder" wines in German, with Burgunder referencing Burgundy, the widely-accepted birthplace of Pinot. The three grapes grouped together are Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris, called Spätburgunder, Weissburgunder and Grauburgunder in German. 

89
Selbach Oster 2018 Pinot Blanc Dry Mosel 12.5% $20
The grapes for this wine hail from the steep Himmelreich vineyard in Zeltingen, known for its topsoil of Devonian slate and subsoil of decomposed slate mixed with loam.

When first opened, this wine is distracting with its high-toned, candied aromas. Watching it change from its well-chilled expression into one at cellar then room temperature was rewarding. I suggest serving this at cellar temperature. There are perfumed tree bloom notes and sweet Comice pear flavors that come out at cellar temperature, and the mid-palate's light creaminess is more evident, too. While the finish does seem to linger longer at warmer temperatures, a slightly irksome candied peach tone persists. 
Drink: 2020-22

85
Ökonomierat Rebholz 2018 Spätburgunder Rosé Pfalz 11.5% $16
These grapes are grown in a limestone rich, organically-farmed vineyard called Im Sonnenschein, which means in the sunshine.

Thin and almost viciously acidic, this wine is demanding. The screaming acidity, especially when served at normal rosé temperatures, is genuinely unpleasant rather than refreshing. It is best served with food and not too cold, or the wine will feel hard and angular. At cellar to room temperature, this is a fairly pleasant, if faintly fruited, wine. The nose is tutti-frutti and simple with strawberry and watermelon flavors coming in on the palate. Rebholz generally makes glorious wines, so this was a disappointment.
Drink: 2020-21 

83
Schmitt (Peter, Bianca und Daniel) 2016 Spätburgunder Rheinhessen 12.5% $28
The grapes for this wine come from certified organic and Demeter biodynamic, south-facing vines rooted in limestone soils. 

This light, dry and floral Pinot Noir is at the cusp of ripeness. It is distinctly hazy in appearance. Alas, serving this wine at cellar temperature resulted in a wine that was herbal and distractingly low in ripeness. There is a jalapeno that is strikingly odd. The tannins are crunchy and the acidity is firm.
Drink: 2020-21