Whites
91
Esporão 2020 Loureiro Vinho Verde 11% $18
This is a mealy 2020 Loureiro pulsing with the vibrant flavors of pluots, yellow plums, donut peach skin and white flowers. A hint of almond skin provides a pleasant dryness on the lingering finish. This is a sleek, juicy wine with a surprisingly pronounced medium body, given it is only 11% abv. Wholesome and full-flavored with excellent balance thanks to the integrated acidity, this is delightful now and will hold nicely a few years.
Drink: 2021-24 

89
Esporão 2020 Bico Amarelo Vinho Verde 11.5% $12
Vibrantly fresh and flavorful, this tastes of yellow plums, yellow tomatoes and sings with a yellow grapefruit zest. There is a cracked white peppercorn zip that adds spiciness. Light in body but robust in palate feel and breadth, this is a brilliantly constructed wine with a moderate, lingering and minerally finish. While I appreciated the 2019, this is a clear rank above, as is the Loureiro 2020.
Drink: 2021-23

Reds
90
Esporão 2018 Quinta dos Murças Minas Douro 13% $24
Smelling lightly smoky and earthy, this deep, profoundly mineral wine takes nicely to a thorough decanting. Its intense aromas and flavors are open and generous to start with, but they really blossom in a carafe. Tasting of forest berries and black plums with nuances of toast, cocoa and vanilla bean, the palate is lush with fruit. The tannins give a smooth impression overall, even if they feel a bit short and prickly on the medium finish. Easy to enjoy already, this has a very well-balanced structure that will allow it to hold and advance to some benefit in the bottle.
Drink: 2021-25

87
Esporão 2017 Assobio Douro 13.5% $14
This is a dark, brooding red that is a blend of 40% Touriga Nacional, 30% Tinta Roriz and 30% Touriga Franca from north-facing, high altitude vines. The wine components are partially aged in used French oak casks for six months. Initial sooty aromas are followed up with oodles of black currant and sloe. Intensely graphite and gamey, the savory aromas compete feistily with the fruit-driven spectrum. Broad on the palate, the acidity is medium but supporting and the tannins are scruffy and short, but not too obtrusive. This is excellent for winter game or burgers on the barbecue.
Drink: 2021-23