Things move quickly at Domaine Courtault-Michelet. That's unusual on the sleepy hillsides surrounding Chablis. However, once you meet Stéphanie Courtault, the second-generation winemaker now leading the estate with her husband, Vincent Michelet, it's not so surprising. She's full of energy and enthusiasm - and with good reason considering how quickly her family's estate has made a name for itself and how rapidly it has grown.

The story starts in 1984 when her father, a vineyard manager, purchased 1.5 hectares of vines...and only four-year-old vines! Jean-Claude and his wife, Marie-Chantal, continued growing the size of the estate, and Jean-Claude launched full-time into his own production just eleven years later. Stéphanie and Vincent joined them in 2008, the same year they began their own domaine. (Because again, these people like to stay busy!) In 2019, Stéphanie's parents officially passed on the torch, just after adding some red Bourgogne Épineuil - and not just any Épineuil, but rather from the much-heralded Côte de Grisey - to their portfolio. 

This year, Stéphanie and Vincent decided to combine the two domaines under the name Courtault-Michelet, which is now 29 hectares strong. I love the new labels with a beautiful raised oyster shell in textured relief, and the 2019 whites are showing very well now. (I particularly enjoyed the energy in the Chablis and Petit Chablis, hence the "*" notation.) Congratulations to Stéphanie and Vincent, and here's to watching closely for what they do next! 

91
Domaine Jean-Claude Courtault 2019 Chablis Premier Cru Mont de Milieu 13%
Along with aromas of yellow and green apples, this wine smells like summer evenings by the seashore. The palate adds hints of toasted bread, almonds and citrus and shows more breadth than the AOC wines. Pinpoint acidity gives the wine excellent vivacity. Tugging with dryness on the medium finish, this Premier Cru is pretty today but will surely benefit from bottle age. 
Drink: 2022-25 

89*
Domaine Stéphanie & Vincent Michelet 2019 Chablis 12.5%
This wine's attractive nose of salted almonds and fern offer an impressively fresh start to this Chablis from a very warm year. In fact, it is rather impressive in its defiance of the vintage. Bracingly dry with solid intensity on the chiseled mid-palate, this thirst-quenching, typically Chablisien wine teems with character and its limestone-driven tugging on the palate is texturally dynamic. The medium finish tastes of green apple peel and oyster shell. Very nicely done.
Drink: 2021-24 

88*
Domaine Stéphanie & Vincent Michelet 2019 Petit Chablis Sous le Vent 12.5%
All seashells, pomelo and lemon zest on the nose, this elegant and doily-like Petit Chablis is a crushable white wine. Brimming with refreshment, the supremely salty back palate is a fun surprise and keeps me going back to the glass. Excellent acidic tension accompanied by a light tannic bite give this wine a very focused structure.
Drink: 2021-23 

87
Domaine Courtault-Michelet 2020 Chablis 12.5%
Smelling like crushed chalk and paper ream on the nose, this lemony, moderate-bodied Chablis is pulsing with energy. Tasting of Asian pear, water cracker and almond peel, this has an evident but pleasing bitterness (almost reminiscent of certain Italian wines). The moderate finish is clipped by that grippy touch, but the lively mouthful of wine is enticingly juicy and salty. With a meal or a snack, this will bring much enjoyment. 
Drink: 2021-23

Reds
88
Domaine Jean-Claude Courtault 2019 Bourgogne Épineuil Côte de Grisey 12.5%
Showing a rich nose of roasted cherries and red plums, this is a fresh, forward Pinot Noir. It has more heft than usual for a Côte de Grisey - surely thanks to the heat of the vintage, but it's abv remains discreet and reasonable. With lightly leathery tannins, integrated acidity and good stuffing, this is a very pleasant, lightly spicy Pinot Noir that is ready to drink now yet can age several years, possibly to additional benefit. 
Drink: 2021-24 

88
Domaine Jean-Claude Courtault 2018 Bourgogne Épineuil Côte de Grisey 12.5%
Rather reserved aromatically, this is a striking contrast to the 2019. Tart red cherries, licorice, fallen autumn leaves and a hint of balsamic have this dancing between youthfulness and the first hints of bottle age. In comparison to the 2019, the 2018 is more medium in body with a crunchier acidic edge and moderately firm tannins. Basically, it's more of a classic Épineuil style between the two wines.
Drink: 2021-23