Christy Canterbury MW

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River Road Family Vineyards Chardonnay Trio

This is an original line-up of value-driven Chardonnays from River Road Family Vineyards and tea and wine guru Ron Rubin. Alas, the names of the first two wines below are confusing. While "Chardonnay Un-Oaked Sur Lie Aged Reserve" does spell out what the wine is, I'm not sure that many consumers buying $17 California Chardonnay know what Sur Lie Aged means. (I do, however, like the idea of a Reserve Un-Oaked Chardonnay, pointing out that unoaked Chardonnay can be more than a "basic" wine.) As for "Double Oaked", I initially assumed the wine had been put in 100% new oak twice, despite the fact that this would be unlikely at such a modest price point. Instead, it refers to the use of two different kinds of oak: French and American. Names aside, the wines offer a complementary array of Chardonnay styles.

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River Road Family Vineyards 2019 Chardonnay "Double Oaked" California 14.8% $17
Deep yellow in color, this highly perfumed and generously bodied wine offers an explosion of flavors. While "Double Oaked" in both French and American oak, ostensibly some of it new, this wine is remarkably well-balanced. There is a hearty, yellow apple core held up by plentiful acidity that delivers lingering minerality on the solid finish. The pronounced buttery notes will likely be polarizing: some will love it; some will leave it.
Drink: 2021-23 

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River Road Family Vineyards 2020 Chardonnay Un-Oaked Sur Lie Aged Reserve California 12.5% $17
Here is the newbie in this Chardonnay trio, making its debut vintage. Unlike the other two, this is aromatically reserved. However, the palate is nicely animated, showing aromas and flavors of citrus, dry oatmeal and a touch of sandalwood. Layered and nicely concentrated, this juicy, medium-bodied wine is exuberant. There is a light, tannic tingle on the finish that suggests this might hold well in the short term. 
Drink: 2021-23 

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River Road Family Vineyards 2020 Chardonnay Unoaked California 12.5% $15
This is a pleasant wine with pear drop aromas accompanied by celery and fennel. Light, juicy and vibrant, the seamless palate has a wispy mouthfeel and highly integrated acidity. Easy-going and casual, the apple core flavor on the palate fades quickly on the finish. 
Drink: 2021-22