Yarden is the crown jewel of the four brands made by Golan Heights Winery. Head Winemaker Victor Schoenfeld has been making the wines there for almost 30 years. So, he's had the time and thoughtfulness to undertake a good bit of experimenting. 

One of his latest projects is exploring indigenous grapes for wine production. Since Israel began producing wine (Golan Heights Winery released its first wine in 1984), all of its wine grapes have been imported. Local grapes are considered table grapes. Yet local grapes would have been used prior to Muslim rule of the area (mind you, that was a long, long time - from 638 CE through World War II), so Victor plans to begin making wine with revitalized wine varieties planted in the volcanic soils of Golan Heights soon. 

For now, there is plenty to be content with in the winery's current offerings, and these three wines are fine examples. Grown at a rather low 33° North, there is a fine balance of latitude and altitude that makes wine production possible here. The altitude - with vineyards climbing to 1,150 meters / 3,773 feet - mitigates the low latitude. Yet, the latitude helps in a surprising way as the grapes near harvest. Whereas more northerly regions receive more sunshine during the middle of the growing season, as the earth turns for the Autumn Equinox, the Golan Heights receive extra hours of sunshine in the crucial weeks before harvest.

White
91
Yarden 2019 Sauvignon Blanc 13.5% $19
Elegantly aromatic, this beautifully textured wine is moreish. Smelling of yellow plums, herb garden and blanched almonds, this is a layered and dynamic palate. Dense and intense, this is not a casual sipping Sauvignon Blanc, even if it is pleasant to enjoy on its own. The integrated, lifted acidity and lightly tugging finish also make this a wine well-suited to the table. With a long, minerally finish, this has several years ahead before it needs to be drunk-up. No need to rush, but it is lovely now.
Drink: 2021-24 

Reds
92
Yarden 2017 Merlot 14.5% $29
At not quite four years old, this wine is decidedly evolved and savory in the most pleasant ways. Its color shows just a hint of evolution in its brick tinges at the edges, too. I agree with Victor, who says this wine always has an orange peel, or a chocolate-covered orange peel, character. Sometimes it is almost fudge brownie-like. Today, that character dominates the underlying cherry fruit flavors, but it sings in harmony with the sultry, peaty and strongly minerally tones of the wine. Hauntingly aromatic and dramatically layered, this nicely concentrated wine is showing very well now. The acidity is perky but very suavely integrated, and the fine tannins add a touch of balancing dryness on the lingering finish. Very well-executed and truly delicious.
Drink: 2021-24 

92
Yarden 2019 Syrah Allone Habashan 15% $87
This single vineyard Syrah sitting at 600 meters in Galilee is inky dark in color. Brooding in aromas with slate, blackberry and cracked black peppercorn it takes its time to open up. Even on the second day, it preferred to remain in its shell. There is plenty here to like, but this wine could use more time to harmonize in bottle. Refined, barely grainy tannins are contrasted by just enough moderate acidity for structure for mid-term support. I'd love to taste this in another year or two.
Drink: 2022-26