It's tiring to continue the narrative that California Chardonnay is controversial. Sure, it's often love-it-or-leave-it, but what should be talked about more is the fact that the state is so large that were it a country, it would be the world's fourth largest wine producer. 

As such, California makes every possible style of Chardonnay. Navigating the ins-and-outs in such a diverse, large terrain with multitudes of winemaking philosophies will clearly yield myriad results.

However, few consumers drink a lot of high-end California Chardonnay. And, top-notch California Chardonnay is beautifully expressed and marvelously precise. Here are three beautiful California Chardonnays that are refined yet snazzy with intellectual interest.

95
LaJota Vineyard Co. 2018 Chardonnay W.S. Keyes Vineyard Howell Mountain Napa Valley 14.5% $100
Impeccably elegant, this showstopper of a Napa Valley Chardonnay is sleek, focused and nuanced. Harmonious from start to finish, the rich flavor palate nicely meshes with the integrated yet hard-working acidity that lifts this muscular and intensely bewitching palate to a very intellectual level. Well-proportioned and grown-up yet showing the sincere intensity and layered concentration needed for carrying well in bottle, this has it all. Flavors of baked apple interlace with baking spices and hints of tart tatin and caramel. Voluminous on the palate with a noticeable touch of alcoholic heat, everything is so well balanced that the wine is supremely balanced. Fully focused on robust fruit flavors with only a tinge of toastiness despite (xx oak), the light minerality seems to add a dry touch to the lingering finish. This plot is one of the last Chardonnay plantings remaining on Howell Mountain.
Drink: 2021-24 

93
Maggy Hawk 2018 Chardonnay Skycrest Vineyard Anderson Valley 13.6% $55
Showing more forward fruit than the 2017, this is nonetheless a sleek and mouthwatering Chardonnay with a hint of savoriness in the lingering, perky finish. Silky soft on the mid-palate, a clean, precise and chiseled acidity gives excellent tension. The long-lasting finish tastes of lemon zest and pomelo with a contrasting kiss of sweet cream. Vinous and dreamy to drink.
Drink: 2021-24 

92
Stonestreet Estate Vineyards 2017 Chardonnay Alexander Valley 14.1% $40
Full-throttle in approachability and juiciness, this Chardonnay is packed with stone fruit pits and generally über juiciness. Lightly layered in texture with solid concentration but no overt glycerol and plentiful acidic vibrance, this is very well balanced. The mild finish tastes of toasted oak and warm nuts with a light citrus tinge. The acidity surges throughout to give this excellent freshness.
Drink: 2021-22