Aligoté suddenly is a hot commodity as a Burgundian variety. Long a favorite, casual wine between family and friends of producers and of those that - gasp - wanted to make a Kir with it, Aligoté suffered from being the "second white grape" of Burgundy for far too long. Today it is chic and sought-after. Sometimes it's a "natural" wine expression. Other times it is clean-cut and pungently youthful. Yet other bottlings are a maze of complexity. Plus, throughout the styles, there are age-worthy ones. There is truly something for everyone in today's Aligoté. 

Nota bene: Be sure not to serve these wines too cold or you'll cut off their aromatic expressions!

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Domaine Chevrot 2018 Bourgogne Aligoté Cuvée des Quatre Terroirs 12% $22
The most fruit-driven and most fruit-expressive of all the wines, this reveals yellow plums and yellow tomatoes with hints of baguette crust. With a moderate, even-keeled body, this is very easy-drinking. A lightly minerally tone accents the extended finish that also shows spring flower notes. Super harmonious with a good, medium finish and integrated, acidic lift. This tastes of Aligoté, not winemaking.
Drink: 2021-23 

89
Domaine Giraudon 2019 Bourgogne Aligoté 12.5% $22
Smelling of yellow pepper, ripe pear and nectarine, this is a very juicy Aligoté. Savory and snappy on the attack, the wine still shows a nicely rounded texture to give it excellent drinkability. The supremely rounded, mouthfilling character and the solid mid-palate concentration give this wine an evident seriousness.
Drink: 2021-24

89
Vignerons de Buxy 2018 Bourgogne Aligoté Silex Buissonnier 12.5% $19
Moderately aromatic, this wine shows aromas of applesauce, yellow plum and bread crust. The palate adds a salty, brothy tone and an underlying earthiness. Moderate in body with a solid fruit core and well-integrated acidity, this boasts an impressively long finish that shows dry and pleasant grip. This is ready to drink but should hold nicely. I'd love this with a mushroom risotto or some aged cheeses! It doesn't taste much of the grape, but it is a very interesting and engaging wine nonetheless.
Drink: 2021-23 

88
Olivier Leflaive 2018 Bourgogne Aligoté 12.5% $27
There is a definite "Côte d'Orian" quality to this Aligoté. There is a robustness and a classiness with the influence of relatively richly-flavored - even if overall considered neutral - oak that informs this wine. Though the wine is effectively the same in abv, it is much richer and deeper in flavor. The palate is generous and glossy on the attack with gliding, minimally intrusive but very perky acidity. The finish is strong on flavor with mineral notes, pomelo, gooseberry and white peppercorn, even if the burst of flavor finishes quickly. Vis-à-vis the others, it falls a bit flat, even if its overall impression is more concentrated and serious.
Drink: 2021-24