Christy Canterbury MW

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Kind of Wild Wines: It's Kind of Wild What They Deliver for Their Promises & Price Points

Kind of Wild Wines hit all the right buzz words for today's concerned and informed consumer: "Made with Organic Grapes", "Supporting Organic Growers", "Free of Unwanted Additives", "Sustainable for Soil Health" and "1% to Environmental Partners" are some of their taglines. Mind you, only one of those snippets means anything legally.  

Moreover, their website says they are "Certified Organic", but the wines are only made with certified organic grapes. That's a tricky claim. US law is very strict on this point and differs from EU law. However, they are also Vegan Certified. The endeavors are admirable; more clear language would be even better. 

I've just had the chance to taste three of the six-wine range from a single vintage. The Malbec-Cabernet Blend will meet many friends. However, with the other two, I am reminded of a dear friend who is an organic wine producer in France who once said, "It doesn't matter if the label says 'Organic'. Every product carrying an "Organic" label has to be good."

He was talking about tea bought at the local supermarket. The point he was making was that a product - including wine - has to be good for people to buy-in. These wines are pleasant enough, but they are very expensive for what they deliver in the glass, including the rather pleasant Argentinian red blend.

Red
88
Kind of Wild 2020 Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza Argentina 13.5% $25
This dynamic, rambunctious blend of 70% Malbec and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon will have you doing the tango that the back label promises as soon as you smell it. Bursting with perfect, poppingly ripe fruit, the wine's youthful fruit vigor is backed-up with scintillating acidity to keep the palate perky and refreshed. The tannins are mild until the finish when they kick up a bit of dusty dryness that nicely frames the boisterous fruit and isn't so dry that you need a water chaser. Fun and very approachable, enjoy the youthful verve!

Note bene: This is a brighter, less oaked and more drinkable Mendoza red than most US consumers are used to. At such an elevated price point, it may appear to under-deliver versus other Argentian Malbecs at the same price point.
Drink: 2021-22 

Rosé
85
Kind of Wild 2020 Syrah-Grenache Rosé Pays d'Hérault France 12% $25
A pretty, peak-season salmon color, the palate is unfortunately flat. There are ripe strawberries, watermelon and cinnamon that drum up interest on the nose, but the palate feels a bit cloying - even syrupy - and along with the rather modest acidity makes this medium-bodied wine feel a bit tired in flavor and lacking in refreshment.
Drink: Through 2021 

White
84
Kind of Wild 2020 Sauvignon Blanc Valle de Lolol Chile 13% $25
Rushing out of this glass, this wine uniquely smells of roasted pineapple, bamboo and sweat. The sweaty, savoriness segues into a salty, brothy note on the palate. Alas, the fruit on the palate feels exotic but also a bit burnt out. The fruit isn't fresh, even if the bright acidic lift remains. The clunky, hard stop on the finish is odd.
Drink: Through 2021