Christy Canterbury MW

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Castelvecchi: Making Delicious Wines Vine-by-Vine

Plump yet savory, the wines of Fattoria di Castelvecchi from Radda in Chianti are sure to satisfy crowds of wine lovers. The broad appeal surely stems in good part from the winery's focus on its vines. Castelvecchi undertakes a plant-by-plant approach in its vineyards, working in lockstep with a team from the University of Milan led by Leonardo Valentini.  Two vineyards in particular at this 22-hectare estate are source of great pride. First is Le Madri, whose 50-plus-year-old vines serve as propagation material for replanting the rest of the vineyards. Second is the Vivaio vineyard, a small plot hosting a collection of Sangiovese clones collected over the centuries.

93
Castelvecchi 2013 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Madonnino Della Pieve 14.5% $55
Though a different vintage, this is very similar to the 2015 Chianti Classico Riserva Lodolaio. It is just more concentrated. Lush, mouth-filling, with a smartly-balanced high alcohol, this is a highly drinkable wine with textured, moderately-grained tannins and an impressively long finish of plums, black pepper and cigar box.
Drink: 2021-25 

92
Castelvecchi 2015 Chianti Classico Riserva Lodolaio 14% $35
Smoky and savory, this is a sultry Chianti Classico Riserva. Its toasted notes play harmony to the bold fruit and deliver aromatic oomph. The long, mouth-coating finish and the palate-saturating flavors testify to the energy and vinosity of this wine decked out in mulberry, black cherry and licorice. Open and broad with tantalizing spicy tones, this is a true delight.
Drink: 2021-25 

87
Castelvecchi 2017 Chianti Classico Capotondo 13.5% $22
Tasting of mulberries and plump, ripe cherries, this wine delivers pleasant juiciness. The medium-bodied palate has a tarry savoriness that gives it a decidedly Old World feel. There is no evident new oak on this wine, allowing the pretty fruit freshness to soar from the glass. The acidity is lightly tart and gives the wine a pleasantly citrusy and refreshing kick. 
Drink: 2021-23