Contrary to the claims of wine producer Radgonske Gorice and the producer's consultant hailing from Champagne, this Slovenian, traditional method sparkling wine tastes very much the same, whether it is the original wine tasted in the dark or the same wine tasted after light exposure. Yes, there are vague differences due to the temperatures and amounts of time in glass, but these are very minor indeed.  

This is not just a question of light exposure after production, a geniune quality problem for which the winery originally set out to raise awareness. ("Light strike" does no wine - or beer, for that matter - good.) Once the grapes were ripe on the vine, all light exposure was eliminated. The Chardonnay grapes were picked at night and night vision goggles were used throughout the wine's production. Radgonske Gorice dramatically calls this "Crafted by Darkness".

I cringe to think of the costs involved to produce the wine this way. However, if one doesn't try, one never knows. I do wonder if the wine might exhibit greater differences in character as it ages? With only 2,000 bottles produced, this first vintage will be one that is hard to follow! The good news is that the winery is continuing production of this wine in order to continually improve the process, so it is worth watching this space.

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Radgonske Gorice NV Untouched by Light Brut Methode Classique Stajerska Slovenia 12% $120
Pronounced, flax yellow in color, this doesn't look like a wine that hasn't seen light or time in barrels or long aging. This wine's bouquet is decidedly non-fruit-driven. Yeastiness and leesiness are a focus. As the wine warms, peachy tones emerge along with nectarine and ginger. So, there is a pleasant contrast of initial versus evolving aromas from the glass. Alas, the bubbles are frothy and a bit aggressive. However, the body is well balanced with crisp, integrated acidity and a delicate residual sweetness that makes this pleasant to drink on its own. The modest layering of flavors and the clipped, dry finish suggest this is best for early drinking.
Drink: 2021-23