Christy Canterbury MW

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The Respekt Movement is Still Going Strong

I first noticed the Respekt logo on wine labels in late 2011 at an Austrian wine tasting. Established in 2006 and requiring a three year conversion process, the first vintage for which this designation could appear on labels was 2009. Over the following decade, four German members were admitted along with additional Austrian wineries. The group now totals 25 winery members. 

The philosophy of Respekt BIODYN is to mentor fellow and aspiring members by establishing a practical and detailed conversion program for each, then to help the converted vinegrower outline a plan for the continuing the practice of biodynamic principles. Overall, the group eschews dogmatism. Their methodology respects and utilizes the practical experiences of the past, while integrating modern agro-ecology ideas that have been scientifically proven to be useful while being respectful of the earth. Members of Respekt BIODYN also believe the enthusiasm and good intentions of the vinegrower are key elements in implementing biodynamic practices. A "quality ideal" influences every aspect of the process, the product and the humans involved.

Here is a small selection of truly invigorating Respekt BIODYN wines recently tasted.  

Sekt
92*
Loimer NV Rosé Brut Reserve Niederösterreich 12% $35
Fred Loimer's Rosé sekt is one of the truly great, gently-priced bottle-fermented rosés in the world. Seamlessly creamy with mid-weight body, this is a wholesome, flavorsome, vinous sparkler with a beguiling, deep pink, salmon-struck color. The full-throttle, fresh fruit concentration is equally accompanied by a throaty, toasty tone that nods to the wine's time on lees along with ample TLC. Every time I taste this wine, I am blown away at how it over-delivers. And plus, it delivers a dry, saline and lingering finish. This is 85% Zweigelt, 25% Pinot Noir and 5% Sankt Laurent. While labeled Brut, this could also be called a Brut Nature as it has only 2.1 g/L residual sugar.
Drink: 2021-24

Whites
90
Sattlerhof 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Südsteiermark DAC 12% $19
Elegant and classy, this tantalizingly aromatic Sauvignon Blanc has a featherweight body and a delightful, pinpoint-balanced acidity. Its harmonious, lightly viscous palate texture faintly lingers on the medium finish. Smelling of hedgerow, yellow grapefruit, celery and bay leaves, this fresh and lively wine is incredibly dynamic. Moreover, there is a light smokiness or flintiness to the finish that adds extra allure. More, please! While certainly enjoyable on its own, the complexity here would shine best at the table. The "STK" on the closure skirt stands for Styrian Terroir and Classic Winegrowers, a strict quality standards association that also uses a highly-vetted vineyard classification system. STK calls this regional wine style bottling a “Gebietswein”.
Drink: 2021-24 

89
Loimer 2019 Grüner Veltliner Langenlois Kamptal DAC 12.5% $24
Surprisingly deep yellow in color, this is a bit faded in aroma and flavor despite its youthful vintage. Though the bottle is slightly off, the wine is still pleasant. Creamy and waxy in texture with copious acidity, this wine leads to a generous - if not super fresh - finish of of lentils and dried apples. I'm sure the next bottle will be more glorious!
Drink: 2021-23 

89
Wieninger 2019 Wiener Gemischter Satz DAC 12.5% $21
Light, bright and vibrant, this intriguingly citrusy wine carries a pleasant undertow of yeasty, rising bread nuance. The savory character of this wine is resolutely present. There also are notes of yellow plum skin with juicy yellow grapefruit accompanied by a beguiling smokiness that is one of those characteristics that can make the best Gemischter Satz more dynamic than many wines made from a single variety. The fiery, dry and minerally finish suggests this wine has at least a few years ahead. This is a blend of 32% Grüner Veltliner, 22% Chardonnay, 12% Riesling, 10% Weissburgunder, 8% Welschriesling, 7% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Neuburger, 3% Muskateller and 1% Traminer.
Drink: 2021-23 

Red
90*
Heinrich 2018 Naked Red Neusiedlersee 12% $20
Incredibly gluggable, this wine's sheer exuberance of black and red forest berries is fervently moreish. Currants ooze onto the palate accompanied by stains of licorice and lilac. The fruit is concentrated and packed with a glossy texture that feels as good as it tastes. As if that weren't enough, the perky acidity and suave, mild tannins do an excellent support job while receding into the background. There is a bare hint of smokiness that adds excellent allure to the moderate finish. A great red for every season...load up the truck! This is a blend of 50% Zweigelt, 35% Blaufränkisch and 15% St. Laurent aged in large, older French and Slavonian oak barrels.
Drink: 2021-24