Christy Canterbury MW

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Knudsen Vineyards and Proper Hyphen Use

The proper use of hypens on the back labels of the Knudsen Vineyards wines told me that this family - now run by the second generation cast of Cal Jr., Page, Colin and David - clearly pays attention to details. That's a good thing as they have 230 acres (with 130 acres planted to vines) that they tend to, right in the heart of Dundee Hills. Not only do the Knudsens farm a lot of prime land, they've been doing it a long time. They've been caring for this former walnut orchard since 1971, making their vineyards some of Oregon's oldest.

Cal Sr. began planting vineyards in 1972 with the guidance of Dick Erath. In 1975, Cal Sr. and Dick founded Knudsen Erath Winery, the first bonded winery in the Dundee Hills. Twelve years later, the two decided to pursue different paths while staying friends. Dick kept operating the winery - but under the name Erath Winery - in the very same place, while Cal Sr. turned to work on traditional method sparkling wines with Rollin Soles at the Dundee Wine Company, now called Argyle Winery.

In 2012, the second generation began making Pinot Noir - followed by Chardonnay in 2013 - under the family name and with the help of Argyle winemaker Nate Klostermann.  The wines are stylish and serious, showing approachability coupled with age-worthiness. It’s no surprise that the Knudsen precision with hypens shows up in their wines, too.

94
Knudsen Vineyards 2017 Pinot Noir Reserve Dunee Hills 13.8% $70
Starting with the pretty, pale ruby color, this wine is all finesse and elegance. Its seamless palate starts with a smooth entry of lightly creamy fruit and svelte tannins leading to a mouthwatering back palate that finishes with a light tannin-led dryness on the medium finish. The oak use is nicely integrated and doesn't show any overt edges. The tangy red currant and red cherry nose leads to a palate of the same fruit profile with a tobacco leaf tone and a light pinch of savory spice. A serious wine with time to spare but delightful to drink now.
Drink: 2020-27 

91
Knudsen Vineyards 2017 Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 13.8% $55
The forward, youthful aromas lead with sweet red cherries and tangy red currants. The flavors follows through with the same and give the palate a cheeky, lifted vibrancy. The tannins are nicely managed through the juicy mid-palate then show their lightly bracing, Dundee Hills pedigree in the structured and pleasantly drying finish. Drinking well now, this will please lots of palates. It also has the layers of nuance (especially in its leather and tobacco tones) to transform nicely in bottle.
Drink: 2020-24 

90
Knudsen Vineyards 2017 Chardonnay Dundee Hills 13.5% $45
Beautifully perfumed with an enticing array of scents, this Knudsen Chardonnay smells of poached pears and crisp golden apples as well as toasted oatmeal and roasted hazelnuts. Spicy on the attack, there is an underlying stream of salinity that gives the medium, brisk finish a taut and clean feeling. The palate feel is caressing with a whisper of glycerol dancing across the medium body. A cleansing grippiness braces the finish. This is compelling wine that should age nicely over the next several years.
Drink: 2020-24