Christy Canterbury MW

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San Leonardo: The Counterintuitive Trentino Winery

The San Leonardo winery poses two contradictions to Trentino conventions. First, it is family-owned and family-run in a region known for its (very high quality) cooperatives. In fact, about 75% of Trentino grapes are processed by coops. Second, San Leonardo's production focuses on reds rather than whites. Though Trentino used to make more reds, the popularity of Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and the region's top-notch sparkling wines have led to an increase in white and sparkling wine production. What is the same is that, like its neighbors, San Leonardo makes finessed wines of distinguished quality from vineyards perched in the Dolomites.

The winery's signature grape is Carmenère, which is found in every red wine, even if it is dominant only in one wine. The flagship wine, the San Leonardo Rosso, is typically a long-lived wine. All of the varieties used here are "Bordeaux varieties", save Riesling and Chardonnay, the latter used for the newly released Blanc de Blancs spumante.

Reds
92
San Leonardo 2015 San Leonardo Vigneti delle Dolomiti 13%
Deep in color and reserved in fruit character, this concentrated, spicy red deserves time to unfold in the bottle. Its taught, raspy tannins and perky acidity coupled with the densely-layered flavors will give this ample time to unwind. There is a tobacco and tomato leaf nose reminiscent of Bordeaux and a deeply ripe fruit style, too. The lingering, intense and lightly black currant tasting finish intertwines minerally nuances and peat. Composed of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Carmenère and 10% Merlot, this wine was fermented in small cement vessels (cement is the only fermentation vessel used at San Leonardo) with remontage and délestage before aging 24 months in French barriques of first, second and third passages.
Drink: 2022-30 

92 
San Leonardo 2003 San Leonardo Vigneti delle Dolomiti 13%
This is the fifth vintage made by enologist Carlo Ferrini, who took over the consulting reins from Giacomo Tachis. Aromatically compelling, this 2003 shows a dynamic nose of evolution with striking notes of cigar box, pipe smoke and aged balsamic woven in with dried mulberry and black currant. The wine slides easily onto the palate thanks to caressing, suave tannins. In turn, vivacious acidity lifts the medium body. A light, savory - even salty - film lingers on the palate that finishes lightly dry and grippy. This is drinking beautifully now and its advanced flavors suggest that it may be at its peak, even if its plentiful acidity suggests that this may hold nicely for many more years.
Drink: 2020-23 

90
San Leonardo 2015 Carmenère Vigneti Delle Dolomiti 13%
Hailing from a highly ripe vintage, this Carmenère shows excellent freshness thanks to its overt, tomato leaf character and roaring, whiplash of acidity. It is a surprising contrast of ripe and concentrated fruit lifted by mountainous freshness. Its aromas entice with woodsy, tobacco scents, while its flavors exude sunshine-concentrated fruit. It's beautifully balanced, and it is the acidity that takes the fore. The gentle, powdery tannins take back seat, dusting up a bit after the bracing acidity. Medium in finish with the lovely savoriness that only Carmenère can provide, this is a feisty youth that will develop beautifully in bottle. 
Drink: 2021-25 

89
San Leonardo 2015 Villa Gresti di San Leonardo Rosso Vigneti delle Dolomiti 13%
This is a surprisingly feisty bottling, but like Anselmo who now heads the estate, the San Leonardo wines are emphatic wines! This 90% Merlot and 10% Carmenère shows over four years of beneficial aging in its cigar-wrapper aromatics. However, its tightly-wound, vise-like grip of focused fruit concentration feels unrelenting. It's a structurally energizing aggressiveness that suggests that this has time to hold on, yet its nicely evolving flavors suggest that it is ready to be enjoyed in the next few years. The tastes of black currant leaf and blackberry linger on the medium finish. Graciously, there is little new oak evident in the wine, despite the wine aging entirely in new French oak barrels.
Drink: 2020-22 

87
San Leonardo 2016 Terre di San Leonardo Rosso Vigneti delle Dolomiti 13%
This is a wine of immediacy with an easy-going palate of soft tannins and tingling refreshment that will easily work with at cellar temperature or with a light chill. This trio of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 10% Carmenère is quintessential picnic wine. Tobacco leaf, mulberry, herb stem and smoked wood give an array of fruit-filled and savory notes. This has generous weight yet is graciously unimcumbered with new oak shading.
Drink: 2020-23 

White
91
San Leonardo 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Vette 12.5%
This is a quiet wine with a discreet but complex nose of flint, yellow grapefruit, pomelo and tangerine peel. Refreshing between its light body and zingingly dry, salty finish with a hint of pithiness, this is a stylish, dignified Sauvignon Blanc that is rather unlike other Alto Adige whites. It is a lighter, more refreshing style that does not need heft and viscosity to makes its statement.
Drink: 2020-22