Change is afoot in Bordeaux as one steps away from the classified growths and luxury cuvées for which the region is well-known, but which in reality only reflect a small portion of wine production. Higher proportions of "spice rack" varieties and less new oak - not to mention a much more experimental approach to fermenting and aging vessels - shape the resulting wines. Here are three innovative reds - all made by women - that I recently tasted. The Hors-Série is a new fave!

89*
Cheval Quancard 2018 Petit Verdot Hors-Série Bordeaux 14.5% $16
This dark, black-inflected wine has a bold, forest fruit-filled nose accented by licorice and underbrush. While full-bodied, the chunky palate is nicely lifted by vigorous acidity and thin but moderately pressing tannins. The lingering, scented finish suggests that, while this wine is a pleasure to drink now, it has the legs for the mid-term. Nicely balanced, this is a hearty red that drinks as well on its own or with food. Not only does this taste great, its slender bottle and wood-effect label give it a unique look, too.
Drink: 2020-24 

87
Château La Freynelle 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Bordeaux 13.5% $20
The bold, forward nose of this dense, concentrated wine is packed with blueberries, cassis and violets. The full-bodied palate is firm with fine but dense tannins and generous acidity that emphasizes those lightly drying tannins on the modest finish. Pleasantly open with a nice, terroir-driven note of cigar box and sauna wood, this is ready to drink now and through the mid-term. While it is unusual to see a pure Cabernet Sauvignon from Bordeaux AOC, this is a distinctly Bordelais wine.
Drink: 2020-24 

86
Château Peybonhomme Les-Tours 2019 L'Atypic de Peybonhomme Vin de France 14.6% $16
This "atypical" blend of 50% Malbec and 50% Cabernet Franc hails from the Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux region but is technically a Vin de France. The fruit comes from Demeter-certified vines. Deep purple in color with a magenta rim, this hyper-youthful wine has a rugged aroma. It smells of freshly-crushed blackcurrants along with tree bark and anise. The bold, high-octane palate is impressive. Though fascinating to taste, the pungent alcohol may make it hard to drink through the bottle. Still, the impressive purity and resolute fruit concentration are admirable. Definitely a food wine given the vigorous, lightly drying tannins accented by the vivacious acidity, this would benefit from another 6-8 months in bottle.
Drink: 2021-25