Christy Canterbury MW

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Pasqua's "Hey French" Label Falls Flat

89
Pasqua MV Bianco Veneto IGT Hey French You Could Have Made This But You Didn't 13.5% $40
Sorry, Pasqua. I don’t get the name or the concept of this wine. The French can’t make it (they aren’t in Italy, much less the Veneto) and the French don’t grow Garganega. Additionally, except in Champagne, the French - like almost all other still wine producers - don't regularly make multi-vintage cuvées that are labeled as such. I understand the "rule-breaking" part, but why doesn't the third generation Pasqua members point to its neighbors? Why the French? I asked about the idea stateside and was told that others on this side of the Atlantic don't get it either. That's not saying that anyone had heard whether other Italians "got it". I appreciate irreverence, but this idea doesn't land its punch.

The label's graffiti vibe is fun though, even if the back label that dedicates half of its explanatory text to the label's artist doesn't explain the artist's vision. It is striking that when I first saw the label, the colors and basic layout reminded me of the Château Fuissé label.

This multi-vintage blend is composed of four vintages: 2013, 2015, 2016 and 2017 - the best four of the last decade for the winery. Given this, it is as dark gold in color as I expected it would be - possibly even more so. Made of 60% Garganega accompanied by Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon Blanc hailing from 600-foot elevation vineyards on the Monte Calvarina in eastern Soave Classico, the wine's nose is very - unrelentingly - neutral. Even with hours of aeration and at warmer-than-cellar temperatures, I can't find the Sauvignon Blanc.  

There is an evident oak imprint here in the golden color and the muted nose, as well as in the light, toasted nut aromas.  Only about 10% of the wine was aged in barriques (not stated if they are new) while the rest of the wine ages in second-use oak, which can impart flavor. I'm curious about that oak and on which vintage it was placed. I'm also curious about how the wines were held before blending and bottling.

The palate is a bit salty with a savory, broth-like undertone. There is a clear peachiness to the wine, but it's otherwise pretty plain and finishes short with a slight oatmeal note and light tannic touch. I really tried to "get it". I don't. It's interesting to taste, but at $40, I can buy the Veneto's Cru Soaves which are a far better value.
Drink: 2020-22