Christy Canterbury MW

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Justin: Wines with Gusto and Gravitas

Justin Vineyards & Winery - a pioneer in the Santa Lucia Mountains well before the Paso Robles AVA was even thought of - is known for its charasmatic, gusto-filled wines. Nearing its 40th anniversary celebration, the Justification and Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles, especially, show the gravitas of their legacy.

93
Justin 2017 Justification Paso Robles 15% $60
This wine is LIT! Made of Cabernet Franc and Merlot, it is inspired by Bordeaux's Right Bank, and it's easy to taste the kindredship. Its gloriously rich and silky mouthfeel definitely reminds me of Pomerol. The smells of mulberry, blueberry and tobacco leaves parallel those Old World flavors. However, the burstingly full body and heady high alcohol depart from the Bordelais style. Still, the structure is superbly-integrated - almost impreceptibly, with this Justification showing an impressive balance of its bulky structure hinged on velvety tannins and gracefully buoyant acidity. For those loving exotic richness, this is a brilliant choice. Moreover, its finish lingers, so this should have a decent life span.
Drink: 2020-25 

90
Justin 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles 14.5% $28
Vibrant and dashingly youthful, this wine has the color of a raven in the glass! Packed with black currants and lifted with the spryness of zippy plum skins, this is a full-bodied red that is thoroughly drinkable. A dusting of pencil shavings comes through on the medium finish that tastes of cassis and tobacco. A crowd-pleaser for sure, this offers excellent value in a family line-up of otherwise rather pricey wines.
Drink: 2020-22 

88
Justin 2016 Isoceles Paso Robles 14.5% $76
It has been a few years since I have tasted Isoceles, so I was eager to pop this cork. As such, I am especially sorry to report that it is lackluster. I wish that I had more than one bottle to try. As for the one that I tasted, its fruits were subdued and muddied. Yes, it is both a blend (of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc and 7% Merlot) and unfined. However, this recent release should have more definition. This tasted of muddled blackberries and stewed plums accompanied by damp forest floor. I appreciated the textured, grainy tannins on the solid finish, which showed nice lift for a wine of such heft and a touch of heat on the back palate. The ambition can be sensed, including in the ample and well integrated new oak, but something is off here.
Drink: ?