Christy Canterbury MW

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The Barons of Brolio

There's nothing like tasting the wines from the winery where Chianti was created! It was at the Castello di Brolio in central Tuscany that Baron Bettino Ricasoli first debuted his 30-year research project in 1872, today called Chianti Classico.  

Striving to remain at the edge of innovation in an ever more-competitive wine industry, Ricasoli is a local leader in vineyard mapping and clonal research. These "cru" wines are all enticing, each in its own way.

94
Ricasoli 2015 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione CeniPrimo 14.5% $85
The CeniPrimo vineyard is located at 984 feet above sea level on slightly calcareous soil with plentiful silt and clay. 

Beautiful when the first drops hit the glass, this wine just keeps on giving as it opens through the second day. On the first day, there are mocha aromatics, but they fade by the second. On both days the predominant aromas are of rose petals, shriveled cherry tomatoes, goji berries and sweet tobacco. The same flavors glide elegantly onto the palate, where they show the impressive vitality of youthful fruit from a warm vintage. Unusually smooth tannins for Sangiovese and seamlessly integrated acidity make this easy to enjoy now. The excellent harmony will allow the wine to age very well, assuming it's allowed to do so. 
Drink: 2019-28 

91
Ricasoli 2015 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Colledilà 14% $70
A great joy of following fine wine is watching it evolve, just as people do. I tasted this wine last December and found it more open then. However, the wine's core notes of tart Sangiovese shininess remain forefront. The tannins are rounding out already, but the vibrant freshness remains to pull the full body's lightly spicy and damp cigar intrigue into a lingering finish. Quiet now, this has plenty of time to recreate itself again and again.
Drink: 2019-28 

90
Ricasoli 2015 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Roncicone 14% $85
Grown in marine sediments with sand pockets and clay lurking well below the surface, the Roncicone vineyard sits at 1,050 feet above sea level.  

With feathery tannins and mild, integrated acidity, this is a very drinkable Gran Selezione. The oak aging is well-integrated and allows the clear and classic Sangiovese characters of dried cranberries and tobacco to shine. There's just enough drying grip on the finish to give this some length, and while no doubt a fine wine with a classic pedigree and style, this is not in the same class as the Colledilà or CeniPrimo.
Drink: 2019-23