Christy Canterbury MW

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The Extended Tasca Family in White

Both of these wineries in the hands of the Tasca family sit on islands off the coast of Sicily. Mozia Island and Tenuta Whitaker sit in a lagoon to the north of Marsala on Siciliy's western coast while Tenuta Capofaro is on Salina Island on Sicily's northeastern side. 

I adore highly scented dry whites, and both wines definitively make my "fave" list, hence the "*" notations.

90*
Tenuta Whitaker 2018 Grillo Mozia Sicilia DOC $22
Only one wine comes from the organically-cultivated, Whitaker vineyards on this small island close to the mainland. The grapes are sent to the mainland by boat then trucked in temperature-controlled conditions to Tenuta Regaleali in the center of Sicily.  

This zinger of a Grillo smells of ginger, fennel frond and yuzu. Pithily dry and chiseled on the attack, the wine glides into the mid-palate with a nicely contrasting silkiness that gives this classy white finessed balance. Exuberantly youthful in flavor, the racy, persistent finish brings on a saltiness reminiscent of the lagoon in which its grapes are grown.  

89*
Tenuta Capofaro 2018 Malvasia Didyme Salina IGT 12.5% $26
The Tasca family purchased 12 acres of Malvasia on Salina in 2002 then created Tenuta Capofaro. The vines enjoy volcanic soils below ground and Mediterranean breezes above it. A much-awarded sweet Malvasia is also made here.

This orange, cantaloupe and honeysuckle-scented, light-bodied, dry white is dynamic! It's great on its own, and it is also delightful with seafood, slightly bitter greens and soft cheeses. The acidity is integrated, but there is a pleasant edge of bite on the finish that gives this white extra lift. The moderate finish reminds me of wet stream pebbles.