Christy Canterbury MW

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Château de Portets – Graves Rouge

89
Château de Portets 2009 Graves 13% $28
This mid-depth colored wine composed of 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon has a rich nose of smoke, campfire cinders, fallen autumn leaves and roasted plums. Its palate is rich and round with kindly caressing tannins and moderate acidity. the umami palate is delightfully unusual and surprising. This is drinking well now and has a small capacity to evolve to benefit…but, why wait? It is supremely satisfying as it is. It is also a fantastic red wine value.
Drink: 2015-18

88
Château de Portets 2011 Graves 13% $25
This deep, scarlet-colored wine is a sultry one. Its bouquet is smoky and briary and has a sexy, rawhide intrigue. The palate quickly turns to dusty, dried earth and faded rose petals along with dried red plums and lavender. Though the wine is reaching its initial tertiary expression, its exuberant florality is beguiling. Its tannins are mildly demanding and slightly chunky, and its vibrant acidity is thirst quenching. This can drink well alone but certainly shines brightest at the table with meat-based dishes. The finish is very generous in length and highly nuanced with an over-riding savory, bouillon-like character.
Drink: 2015-17