91
Terras Gaudo 2015 Albariño O Rosal 12.5%
Waxy, succulent and silky, this is a different class of Albariño. It is astonishingly mouth-filling and creamy for a 12.5% abv wine. On the first day, the wine was massively fruit-driven with oodles of tree fruits and citrus peels on the palate. On the second day, the wine expanded into a much broader array of equally intense flavors. Bitter nut pith, Carr’s Table Water crackers, yellow tomato and citrus sherbet poured from the bottle. What a fascinating transition! The finish doesn’t want to let go, even leaving a pleasantly clingy, vaguely oily tone on the palate. This was my first encounter with this producer’s wine, but I suspect it will age rather nicely thanks to its finely tuned acidity.
Drink: 2018-2020

88
Lagar de Condesa 2016 Albariño 13.0%
Hailing from the Valle do Salnés, I thought for a split second that this Albariño was oaked. But noticing its crisp, seriously dry finish enrobed in yeasty tones, I wondered if extended lees aging was tricking me. Sure enough, this was aged four months on the lees to give it roundness. Yet as it turns out, this wine saw both. The somewhat smoky nose moves into a broad, rounded attack that gives way to high-toned acidity accompanied by a distinct and perceptible walnut pith-type bitterness. Here again, I preferred this on the second day as the flavors really began to unfurl and the pithy sensation dissipated some. I wouldn’t hesitate to give this a very resolute decanting! Clearly ambitious, this is an Albariño to follow.
Drink: 2018-19