On the first night, I was surprised to find that this was an unremarkable set of wines. The next night, however, the wines began to expand in the glass and show more verve. They are somewhat disjointed and the Serralunga in particular does not yet show a great depth of expression, but these factors can be forgiven between their extreme youth and very friendly pricing (for Barolo.) If you can’t bear to wait, give them an aggressive splash decanting a few hours before serving them. In their current state, these Piedmont bottlings are definitely wines for a table laden with hearty fare.

91
Fontanafredda 2013 Barolo 14% $40
A pretty and floral Barolo with fair accessibility despite its youthfulness, this is crafted from Nebbiolo hailing from Monforte d’Alba, Castiglione Falletto, La Morra and Serralunga d’Alba. There are woodsy undertones and plentiful dried meat savory notes here. Watching over 24-hours, this wine’s aromas really open up to lead to a broad palate with no shortage of expressive flavors. There are dried wild flowers, cracked white peppercorns and smashed mulberries galore. This wine continued opening up on the third night, but that won’t help the time- or patience-strapped drinker.
Drink: 2020-28

92
Fontanafredda 2013 Barolo Serralunga d’Alba 14% $45
There is a familial note here in the concentrated fragrance of dried rose petals, but the Barolo Serralunga d’Alba hits a more powerful bass note with earthy and hazelnut shell tones. This bouquet is firmly closed, but its structure is rather approachable with suave tannins and integrated, rather moderate acidity for Barolo. The finish lingers with nuances of beef jerky, beef broth and hung game. Do wait for this Nebbiolo to unfurl as it will certainly be more delightful just a few years down the road.
Drink: 2020-28