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Pierre Boisson 2012 Auxey-Duresses En Reugne Premier Cru 13% $38

Some wines stop you in mid-thought. They tend to be polarizing and are either heart-stoppingly delicious or revolting. This is a beauty.

It is hard to make great wines poorly, be they from a great plot or a terrific vintage. (Yet, it is entirely possible.) Following on, it is equally hard to make great wines from less obvious terroirs.

There are only 1.35 hectares of Premier Cru Chardonnay out of 35.6 in Auxey-Duresses. En Reugne is one of Auxey-Duresses’ nine Premier Crus. This kind of specificity highlights the beguiling bewilderment that is Burgundy.

This particular wine, crafted by the father-son duo, Bernard and Pierre Boisson, is quite simply captivating. It makes for superlative drinking now, and it will continue to do so at least through its first decade. The wine is supple on the palate with the daintiest nuance of creaminess complemented by an accompanying texture that – to me – is reminiscent of fluffy oatmeal. An appealing raciness elevates the palate yet is suavely woven into the wine’s mid-bodied weight. The nose is perfumed, and the palate is hardly shy in flavor. There’s toasted biscuit, nougat, anise, fried sage and drying nectarines. It’s an astonishingly delight mix of everything Chardonnay from its origin should be. Overall, it is simply angelic.